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但当你看过设计师Philippe Guilhem的珠宝，相信你绝对会对铜制珠宝的印象有颠覆性改观。

by Philippe Guilhem

by Philippe Guilhem

展开剩余 90 %

出身法国珠宝世家

Philippe Guilhem出生于法国最古老的城市Béziers。

Philippe Guilhem

自19世纪以来Guilhem家族就在Béziers经营古董精品店，同时也是珠宝制造商，为各种品牌生产收藏品。

Philippe Guilhem的精品店

Philippe Guilhem的精品店

今天文章的主角：设计师Philippe Guilhem是家族第四代经营者。

Philippe Guilhem

他的父亲Jean-Pierre Guilhem是法国最著名和最受尊敬的宝石学家之一，因此很早开始Philippe 就接触矿区，和父亲一起购买令人惊叹的宝石。

Philippe Guilhem

黄色蓝宝石玫瑰金铜制戒指，by Philippe Guilhem

才华横溢：高起点的艺术熏陶

Philippe Guilhem儿时的记忆不仅是被精美的宝石包围，还被各种艺术品、古董包围着。他在各种形形色色的珠宝、绘画作品、雕塑作品和其他古董艺术品中长大，经常和父母一起参观古董商的沙龙和博物馆。

除了父母熏陶，他的曾祖母Eloise也是一位优秀的雕塑家。毫无疑问，成长环境和家庭氛围对Philippe 的品味和审美起到至关重要的作用：对他来说，一切都从他的童年开始。

Philippe Guilhem

Philippe Guilhem曾坦言，他最初对艺术的热情始于他父亲在家庭旅行中带回的浮雕和罗马镶嵌物的藏品。后面，他又逐渐迷上了埃及艺术、非洲艺术及雕塑艺术……越陷越深且无法自拔。

迷你的雕塑艺术：与“铜”的不解之缘

Philippe Guilhem在谈到他在珠宝造型的审美上的造诣和追求时曾解释说：“事实上，我伟大的祖母是一位雕塑家。1865年，她在Béziers开设珠宝店。现在我喜欢用我的珠宝中的青铜来向她和她的作品致敬。”

18.77克拉蓝宝石，青铜和玫瑰金戒指，by Philippe Guilhem

因为深受雕塑艺术的影响，Philippe Guilhem的作品无论从造型角度，还是轮廓与线条的处理上，大都非常具有雕塑感。

雕塑家Gustave Miklos和建筑师Zaha Hadid多年来一直是Philippe Guilhem灵感的关键来源。

by Philippe Guilhem

在材料上Philippe Guilhem热衷于使用青铜和宝石相结合，而不是传统的贵金属材质。

by Philippe Guilhem

在Philippe Guilhem的眼中，金属无分贵贱。

by Philippe Guilhem

从小在金银珠宝堆里长大的他，更喜欢青铜随着时间的推移而“优雅”变化的“味道”，不同的条纹和痕迹出现在表面上都是时光带来的礼物。

by Philippe Guilhem

他认为，非常干净，闪闪发光的石头和粗糙质感的的金属材料之间的对比和碰撞会带来极致的视觉感受。

by Philippe Guilhem

而Philippe的珠宝作品也的确看起来十分有质感。

钻石玫瑰金铜制戒指，by Philippe Guilhem

通过对铜金属表面的特殊处理、金属宝石颜色的互相碰撞，带给人一种高级、神秘、优雅的感觉。

帕拉伊巴戒指，by Philippe Guilhem

手工制作：极简主义“铜”质珠宝

其他来自法国的珠宝商，如Chaumet尚美巴黎之类的经典大牌，往往带给我们的都是极致的精致优雅和细腻华美的感受。

但Philippe Guilhem却与众不同，除了材质特殊外，在造型上也力求表达极简和纯粹主义。

by Philippe Guilhem

他的作品造型乍一看起来造型非常简单、风格简约明了，不像法国珠宝的风格，但实际上仔细审视后你会发现：他把极简主义微小细节上的吹毛求疵发挥的淋漓尽致。

by Philippe Guilhem

越简单的设计背后往往需要付出更多。

对于Philippe Guilhem来说，创造一件珠宝是一个漫长的过程，可能需要几个月的时间。

by Philippe Guilhem

by Philippe Guilhem

Philippe Guilhem曾在国外的采访中承认他不喜欢使用CAD建模，他觉得CAD建模创造了无生命的设计。他自己在珠宝制作中，坚持手工制作所有的模型。

by Philippe Guilhem

Philippe Guilhem说：“我真的更喜欢手工制作的设计，我觉得美是不完美的。”。

by Philippe Guilhem

除了手工制作外，首饰设计的设计稿也是由Philippe Guilhem手绘完成。

by Philippe Guilhem

by Philippe Guilhem

就像玉石手镯中素圈手镯最容易看出瑕疵，雕花的镯子大多遮瑕雕刻后不明显的道理一样，越简单的东西越容易被审视出瑕疵和破绽。

Philippe Guilhem戒指的线条简约，每条线都必须一丝不苟地完美打磨。

by Philippe Guilhem

就像一个小型迷你雕塑，每毫米都需要精准测量，以确保设计上的平衡与和谐。

只要稍微更改了戒指的宽度、棱角的弧度、石头的位置或设定的角度，设计的视觉效果就会受到影响。

by Philippe Guilhem

J先生说：

做设计加法容易，减法难。

化繁为简且能保持住风格鲜明绝对不是件易事。

Philippe Guilhem的珠宝设计追求极简主义，融合雕塑艺术风格，通过对铜金属材料的大胆应用，打造出金属与宝石极致对比的大气不凡的感受。

更多铜制珠宝相关文章戳下面~

相关阅读：

用铜做首饰，连英国女王都佩戴的千元级珠宝，你种草了么？

铝竟然比金子贵？回收易拉罐做成的珠宝，颜色堪比彩虹

（注：本文配图及部分信息源自Philippe Guilhem官网和网络，侵删或联系小编备注出处）

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